The Inspirations Behind the Lacoste FW25 Show | LACOSTE
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10 Jun 2025 – Fashion
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FW25 Runway Show: The dinner that inspired the show

For this collection entitled “An Invitation”, Creative Director Pelagia Kolotouros found inspiration in a photograph from the late 1920s, capturing a dinner party attended by René Lacoste and his wife, Simone. The result is a refined exercise in style, rich with hidden details — and, for the first time in the brand’s history, a series of pieces created especially for evening wear.

Dinner at the Hermitage, Le Touquet, 1939, with Germaine, Edouard, and Guy de Rothschild
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Dinner at the Hermitage, Le Touquet, 1939, with Germaine, Edouard, and Guy de Rothschild

©Lacoste Family Archives.

More than a runway show—a story in itself

The years 1925 to 1930 were marked by countless cultural, artistic, and technological innovations that opened up a world of possibilities for the boldest of minds. René Lacoste was one of them. A French tennis champion, the young man registered multiple patents before launching his own brand in 1933 — centred around a single invention: the polo shirt.


René Lacoste the sportsman, René Lacoste the entrepreneur, René Lacoste the icon of Parisian society... The show brought these three sides of an extraordinary figure to life through men’s and women’s looks — for both day and evening wear.

René Lacoste at Wimbledon in 1928, ©Archives Lacoste. Jacques Brugnon fonds
René Lacoste at Wimbledon in 1928, ©Archives Lacoste. Jacques Brugnon fonds
Bernard, René Lacoste, and Charles Marcus
©Lacoste Family Archives.
Bernard, René Lacoste, and Charles Marcus ©Lacoste Family Archives.
René Lacoste, Suzanne Lenglen, and their respective mothers seated in the stands of a tennis court on the Côte d’Azur
René Lacoste, Suzanne Lenglen, and their respective mothers seated in the stands of a tennis court on the Côte d’Azur. Undated, ©Lacoste Archives.

Daywear

Between 1925 and 1930, sport began to seep into everyday life, influencing clothing's cuts and fabrics. Garments became lighter and easier to wear. Once hidden under layers, the jumper came into its own, featuring intricate knits and decorative patterns. Wool, canvas, and plain crepe were worn with fluid lines, and tailoring became simpler.


The first part of the FW25 show showcased daywear. Featuring shades of white—the color associated with tennis, but also with sand, in a nod to clay courts—tailored looks took centre stage, paying tribute to the business side of the brand’s founder. These outfits highlighted the Maison’s expertise in tailoring, combining tradition with innovation through clever technical details. They shared the spotlight with sportier tennis-inspired pieces, as though René Lacoste had just finished a match. Whites dominated the colour palette; knits were braided; jacquards drew on the Dada movement or featured a ‘René’ motif that recalled the creativity of vintage posters. With turned-down collars, roll-necks, and designs that reinterpreted the aesthetics of speed sports, Pelagia Kolotouros and her team’s creative vision was clear and precise.


The innovations of the late 1920s met those of the modern Maison, blending minimalist elegance with technical performance.

FW25 Runway Show: The dinner that inspired the show
FW25 Runway Show: The dinner that inspired the show
FW25 Runway Show: The dinner that inspired the show
FW25 Runway Show: The dinner that inspired the show
FW25 Runway Show: The dinner that inspired the show
FW25 Runway Show: The dinner that inspired the show

Evening wear

One of the jumpers featured a subtle tone-on-tone crest — an imaginative design adorned with the “Lacoste” name, tennis rackets, and the iconic crocodile. It served as a thread linking the various looks and reminded us that, after the daywear, the show closed with René Lacoste’s evening dinner.


In the late 1920s and early 1930s, the most sought-after dinners were often hosted by prominent figures who decorated their invitations with family crests. The women of the house played a pivotal role, carefully organising everything from the guest list and menu to conversation topics, games, dances, and entertainment.


René and Simone Lacoste, surrounded by the industry elite and the most forward-thinking minds in sport, art, and literature, were gracious hosts. This provided the perfect opportunity for Pelagia Kolotouros to unveil the evening wear — a first for the French Maison — distinguished by the use of a rich, deep green labelled “Varech.”


Shiny fabrics, low waistlines, décolletés, flowing silhouettes, sheer panels, long dresses, and precious jewellery… the evening wear codes of the 1925–1930 era were reinterpreted with flair and crowned with embroidery — the era’s most luxurious artisanal craft. Just as decorative knitwear defined the day looks, the evening pieces shone through surface details: a modern flapper-inspired tulle dress embroidered with glass beads, a half-submerged yet sparkling crocodile — a nod to the Art Deco movement. Tiny tennis courts crafted from crystals echoed exclusive guipure lace patterns. Fresh and inventive, these embellishments honoured Lacoste’s heritage while adding a surreal twist. Far from mere details, they completed a wardrobe that effortlessly blends tailoring with sportswear, French elegance with comfort — as daring as René Lacoste himself.


“An Invitation” drew to a close as Pelagia Kolotouros thanked her guests, continuing to write a new chapter in Maison Lacoste’s story, ensuring that the golden age of modernity feels as vibrant as ever.

FW25 Runway Show: The dinner that inspired the show
FW25 Runway Show: The dinner that inspired the show
FW25 Runway Show: The dinner that inspired the show
FW25 Runway Show: The dinner that inspired the show
FW25 Runway Show: The dinner that inspired the show

———

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